'By hotter winds, our fiery hearts are fanned: For lust of knowing what should not be known. We take the Golden Road to Samarkand. Open the gate, O watchman of the night!' - James Elroy Flecker, written in 1913.
We don't know what road he was travelling on but it cannot have been the road from Bukhara unless something dramatic has happened as the road was drab, dreary and featureless - plain boring in fact. Yes, the condition wasn't always brilliant and we hit a couple of pot-holes and there was a section where Paul was down to 40km/h but that is almost becoming a daily reality here. Something has also happened to the weather - it is chilly, we are wearing jumpers.
We left our Turkmen wine with our Bukhara hotel - intrigued to know what they will do with it but we will never know?
When we visited in 2014 we always arrived in the centre of the cities and perhaps things appeared different because of this? The temperature was also in the high 30's/ low 40's. We are miles off that - a 20 degree shift. People have said that both winters and summers are getting warmer, but it is not the case at present.
The only 'interesting' things to note about the trip to Samarkand was a wonderful Cornish Pasty stop on the way and the absence of petrol stations. There are plenty of Gas stations selling Methane and Propane, but no Benzin. Paul did have a full tank so we were OK but it is something that we will have to take account of in future. Just because there is a Lada parked outside a pump on a forecourt doesn't mean that there is some petrol available and it is far more likely that the Lada has been there for some years - waiting for Benzin?
We arrived just before the rain. Our 'hotel' only spoke Russian (and dollars) and wanted to substantially renegotiate the price of our stay. All quite difficult, it took some time to 'sort', and we were not sure what has been 'sorted'. By the time we had settled in, it was too late for the banks and we could not find any banks, money change facilities or dubious men with suitcases hanging around on street corners in order that we could get some Soms. As far as 'dubious' is concerned though, on the next street there were five black, blacked-out Maybachs and one black, blacked-out Rolls all with similar number plates parked together with a 'heavy' sat on a chair outside the door - wonder what goes on behind the green door? Maybe Avis and Hertz have gone up-market?
Anyway, with not much local cash in our pockets, Francoise became 'British' and asked a Policeman where we could find a money changer. Few telephone calls. Policeman walks into street to flag down a taxi - but stops the traffic so that the patrol car can pull out. We are then told to get into the patrol car. Google translate says that the 'colleagues' are taking us for our safety. We get to a market area, a dubious man was holding a wad of Soms. Policeman gives him some notes, Paul gives man $100, we get Soms in exchange. We are then taken back to tourist area in police car. All quite bizarre! We counted the notes afterwards, we had been given the bank exchange rate. Just a bit disappointed that we did not get the sirens and flashing lights on the trip. Anyway, saved a couple of taxi fares.
One should note that wads of notes are common place here. A 1000 Som note is worth 10p. There are also 500 Som notes. The biggest note we have had is a 50,000 Som note. For the $100 we had 845,000 Som.
Friday morning - temperature is 11 degrees with a maximum of 17 degrees today according to the BBC. Just stopped raining. Weather is unheard of. Francoise is still not feeling well and it looks as though we are going to take an extra day in Samarkand, as we will not get much done today. Change of accommodation inevitable.
Why do we expect the BBC to know everything. Sun breaks out in the afternoon, Francoise perks up a bit and we can wander about a bit. Still staying an extra day - elsewhere!
Saturday morning more rain. Long ride today - 1km to new accommodation. Again weather betters significantly in the afternoon and we complete our site seeing trip. It's more Madrassas, Mausoleums, Minarets and Mosques, but with a lot more blue tiles than Bukhara. Still amazed to see these Buildings dating from the 14th and 15th Century, even though most of them have had Soviet cosmetic and physical surgery. The photos from the early 1900's show the sites devastated and hardly recognisable compared to what is there today. Would people come to see ruins?
Francoise is always careful about photographing the locals. The zoom assists. However the locals have no such issue with Francoise and she is often snapped or asked to be part of some Uzbek stranger's group photo. Not Paul. It must be the hair!
We are both feeling a bit better, so Tajikistan tomorrow. Change of plan as the border nearest to Samarkand is now open to foreigners. Panjakent here we come. It's only 70km - surely?
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