Put it this way, the roads in the Northern Territory are not that interesting so we were not stopping for photo opportunities that often. Good quality tarmac, clear and straight roads meant we managed to cover 430km that afternoon, turning up at a caravan and cabin site in Mataranka. Night falls quickly here. We had planned to stop before dusk as that is also when the, as yet still alive, roadkill come out. A wallaby rushed across the road just as we were driving past, but no harm done. it was very pleasant in Mataranka, stunning starry sky, wallabies bounding around and a peacock sat in the tree outside our cabin.
Australia is huge and maps seem distorted. Petrol stations are not always that frequent - biggest spacing stretching to 240km. We had to ride in function. The main highways are single carriageway. In the Northern Territory no exaggeration in stating the roads are often featureless and dead straight. Road Trains, some 50m long, are a good distraction to the eye.The road is all there is, no pipes or cables or posts. The locals dress termite mounds to add interest. Rather intriguing. We look forward to a sign to read every now and then, even the most banal. But nonetheless the hugeness is impressive. It is also caravanning country, more so than camper vans. The caravans here are roughty toughty offroad ones clipping neatly onto the oversize 4x4 flatbeds. But they don't sell beer in pints...
After the 430km of the first afternoon we maintained the pace and covered 760km the following day to Barkly Homestead (middle of nowhere), then 780km to Kynuna (just shows you how big the middle is), 790km to Emerald ( still hanging in in that middle) and finally a further 510km to reach very picturesque '1770' on the Gold Coast. Paul was exhausted. Francoise by now had resorted to her iPod to keep awake; photo shooting was getting pretty slim. The Harley is now in its element, crossed fingers etc. no more offroad jaunts like Southern China, Northern Laos and Cambodia.
After the wallabies and peacocks at Mataranka, we came across a wonderful 'mature' man in a pith helmet driving his Model T across the Outback at Barkly. He photographed us, we him. Kynuna was where the idea for Waltzing Matilda came from; something to do with a sheep shearer committing suicide. Our room was nothing more than a corrugated tin shack. The 'Route 66' Motel in Emerald looked somewhat out of place. This was after the mini Monument Valley. And finally '1770' is, we are told, the spot where Captain Cook landed; not the current, if he still is, cricket one.
So we have reached the Eastern Coast, having ridden 3270km in exactly four days. In other countries all life seems to happen on the road. Here they only put out their wallaby and kangaroo doormats to dry. It was of interest to see the first one, Australia specific roadkill, but then on some stretches we came across dead animals every 100m. It was real carnage and we didn't feel so 'interested'. Too much even for the birds to eat.
Our Coast to Coast ride meant regular stops throughout the day. The Australian diet is however pretty scary and worrying for the future waistline and health of Oz. Interesting to note that a beef schnitzel was 6$, put it in a bun and the price rose to 9$, but have salad with it and the price rose to 18$. Vegetables are expensive and not just out in the outback where everything has to be trucked in.
. Crossing the outback has certainly been an endurance test for us but one that we have strangely enjoyed and felt almost privileged to have been able to do. The rush has paid off too since we are now back on track. Hopefully the hard kilometres are also behind us. Sydney's calling...
Paul and Francoise
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