Where the nuts come from...

3rd June

Where the nuts come from...

 

Paul far from perfect today, but we decide nonetheless to ride to Arslanbob which was always our plan. We hadn't anticipated things being so hard. The main roads are bumpy enough, but Arslanbob is 50km off the main road and at the end of a cul-de-sac. Supposedly the world's biggest walnut forest. No information to date on the state of the roads has been accurate and we decided that if things get too difficult we would turn round.

 

But we made it - the road wasn't too bad and Paul was improving. We are now in homestay territory - no longer hotels. The village is incredible - we are so much out of place here. Nonetheless two bottles of water come in a Morrisons plastic carrier bag - there was a stack in the shop - and you don't have to pay 5 p for them.

 

Our homestay does have a separate toilet and shower block,  they prepare dinner for us and there are beds. So surely this is no different except better than camping? All the children here want their photos taken - Francoise reminisces on polaroid cameras.  It would have been great to give them a hard copy instead of them staring at the screen of the camera. Big smiles from the children nevertheless.

 

Arslanbob has electricity and there is plenty of water off the mountains. Forget about WiFi. We hear the call to prayer and some of the ladies wear headscarves of various types - but no hijabs. Bizarre contradiction of a lady in the park in Osh having an almost complete headscarf, but breast feeding openly. Similarly a lady in Arslanbob today walking down the street breast feeding with the Mosque as a backdrop. But this is normal - it is us that attract the stares, with or without the bike.

But why is this place listed as one of the top four must-see's in Kyrgyzstan? Despite Paul still not feeling well the following day,  we did a short trek to see the local attractions - walnut forest etc. Underwhelmed. There are far more interesting 8km walks within 20km of wherever you find yourself in Europe. Still don't get the place. People say that a Gerrman tourist spent some time here and basically said, 'ain't this quaint?' Since then Arslanbob has been part of all the tourist guides. Well worth a miss. Unless you like authentic dust. Central Asian towns, villages and roads are dusty. 

 

Ready to leave and head north to Toktogul, 300kms away - no homestay before then. A far more interesting scenic ride and we can now see the end in sight. We thoroughly enjoyed the roads, the sun is shining and despite not feeling 100% we knock off 300km quite happily.

Our homestay are interesting and sociable.Two nights ago we ate with some Turkmen who had left Turkmenistan in 1989 for Russia and were now classed as dissidents and not allowed back. They were interested in Francoise's recent photographs of the country. Last night we dined with two Belgians from near where Francoise was brought up. Tonight at the hostel we shared a meal with a Czech motorcyclist. Thanks to Mr Google Translate, Paul also enjoyed a conversation with the slightly older Kyrgyz owner of the house. Every topic came up from Central Asia, Arslanbob, problems with the Uzbeks and garden roses and geraniums. All that thanks to technology!